A few baking bloggers consistently spark my creativity with unusual flavor combinations and clever spins on classic pastries. Claudia Brick of The Brick Kitchen is one I’ve mentioned before; her salted coffee caramel macadamia white chocolate brioche scrolls inspired one of the earliest recipes on this blog. Claudia’s photos and aesthetic drew me in long before I tried her recipes.
Another consistent source of inspiration is Thalia Ho of Butter and Brioche. Months ago I was captivated by her Hazelnut Praline and Rye Chocolate Chunk Cookies. Unlike many chocolate chunk cookies, Thalia’s use a dough made with melted butter, which intrigued me. I made a batch and loved the hazelnut–chocolate–rye flavor combination, but I wanted more crunch, deeper caramelization, and a chewier texture—think Jacques Torres-style chocolate layer cookies, but with rye and hazelnut praline.
If you’re not familiar, Jacques Torres popularized a chocolate “layer” cookie that uses chocolate discs or fèves rather than chips; the discs melt into rich, molten layers. The other crucial element of that method is resting the dough in the refrigerator for 24–72 hours before shaping and baking. That rest lets the ingredients meld and improves caramelization and overall flavor.
The recipe below is adapted not directly from Jacques Torres but from David Leite’s popular New York Times adaptation, which follows Torres’ approach. I kept Leite’s idea of combining bread flour and cake flour, but reduced the quantities slightly and added rye flour for flavor. You can use all-purpose flour as a substitute—many bakers do—but I prefer the bread-and-cake-flour combo for the texture it yields, so I used that here.
The hazelnut praline in this recipe is a simple “cheater’s caramel”: a touch of light corn syrup keeps the sugar from crystallizing and makes the process forgiving. Don’t be intimidated; making a basic praline like this is quick and straightforward once you try it.
One technique I borrowed from Thalia’s recipe (and originally popularized by Sarah Kieffer) is “pan-banging.” Halfway through baking, you open the oven and bang the cookie sheet down on the oven rack a few times at one-minute intervals. It sounds odd, but it helps the melting chocolate discs spread into glossy puddles across the cookies.
Two elements are non-negotiable: (1) use good-quality bittersweet or dark chocolate—chocolate discs or fèves work especially well; and (2) allow the dough to rest in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours, preferably around 36 hours. The wait is worth it for the extra depth of flavor and improved texture.
Chocolate Chunk, Rye, and Hazelnut Praline Cookies
Adapted from David Leite in the New York Times Food section. Inspired by Thalia Ho.
Dessert
chocolate chip cookies, chocolate chunk cookies, chocolate chunk hazelnut praline cookies, rye chocolate chip cookies
Ingredients
For the hazelnut praline
-
2/3
cup
toasted, skinned, chopped hazelnuts -
1/2
cup (100 g / 3.5 oz)
sugar -
1
tsp
light corn syrup -
2
tbsp
water -
pinch
salt
For the cookies
-
6
oz.
cake flour -
6
oz.
bread flour -
5
oz.
rye flour -
1 1/4
tsp
kosher salt -
1 1/4
tsp
baking soda -
1 1/2
tsp
baking powder -
10
oz
unsalted butter
at room temperature -
10
oz
light brown sugar -
8
oz
granulated sugar -
2
large eggs -
2
tsp
vanilla extract -
1
lb.
bittersweet chocolate discs or feves
– plus a handful extra for the tops of the cookies - flaky sea salt
Instructions
Make the hazelnut praline:
-
Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper.
-
In a heavy skillet or saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, and water. Cook over medium-high heat without stirring until the mixture begins to color slightly.
-
Swirl the pan (do not stir), and continue cooking, swirling occasionally, until the caramel reaches an even, deep amber color. This takes only a few minutes.
-
Remove from the heat and quickly stir in the chopped nuts and a pinch of salt with a silicone or rubber spatula. Turn the mixture out onto the lined baking sheet and spread it into an even layer.
-
Let the praline cool and harden, then transfer it to a cutting board and chop into small pieces with a sharp knife.
Make the cookie dough:
-
Sift the three flours, baking soda, and baking powder into a medium bowl, then whisk in the salt. Set aside.
-
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, brown sugar, and granulated sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each, then mix in the vanilla.
-
With the mixer on low, add the flour mixture and mix until just combined—this should take only about 10 seconds.
-
Add 1 lb. of chocolate discs and the chopped hazelnut praline. Mix briefly on low to distribute, then finish folding them in with a sturdy silicone or rubber spatula.
-
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 24 hours, preferably 36 hours, and up to 72 hours.
-
When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350°F and line two baking sheets with parchment or silicone mats. Using an ice cream scoop or large spoon, portion 6–8 mounds of dough (about 70 g each) onto the first sheet. If you like extra chocolate puddles, nestle an extra chocolate disc or two on top of each mound. Repeat on the second sheet.
-
Bake one sheet at a time for about 18–20 minutes. Halfway through baking, open the oven and, with oven-mitt-protected hands, bang the baking sheet against the oven rack. Close the oven and repeat the bang one minute later, then two more times at one-minute intervals (four bangs total). When cookies are golden and the chocolate is molten, remove from the oven, sprinkle flaky sea salt over the chocolate puddles, and let the cookies cool on the pan for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely.
-
Bake the second sheet following the same process.
-
After both sheets are baked, you can repeat with remaining dough, keep the dough refrigerated to bake more batches over the next couple of days, or scoop and freeze portions to bake later.
Recipe Notes
- You can substitute 12 oz. of all-purpose flour for the bread-and-cake-flour mix if needed, though the bread/cake combination gives a texture I prefer.
- The 24–72 hour refrigerator rest lets the dough’s ingredients meld and helps produce the deeper caramelization and flavor characteristic of these cookies.
- While you can scoop and freeze dough immediately after mixing, results are best when the dough has aged in the refrigerator first. Baked cookies also freeze well.